SURRY HILLS. Bird, Cow, Fish has three different areas of expertise ­ a bistro, an espresso bar and a retail 'fromagerie' with a fantastic selection of cheeses. Run by a husband and wife team, with service that's friendly and unpretentious, they specialize in innovative and often simple dishes such as potato gnocchi with burnt butter, verjuice and capers. The clientele is broader than the young local demographic, with many 40-plus Sydneysiders frequenting the riotous expansion of top restaurants in Surry Hills. Reservations advisable for breakfast and lunch, but not available for evenings except for groups. WALK: 10 minutes from central or museum station, BUS: 301-303 from Castlereagh Street (near corner Market Street).

<i><b>Bistro</b></i>&nbsp;&nbsp;Mon-Sat 8am-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sun 8am-3pm <i><b>Espresso bar</b></i>&nbsp;&nbsp;Mon-Sat 8am-10pm; Sun 8am-5pm

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